PFW

The headline of PFW was of course the newly appointed designer for Balenciaga : Demna Gvasalia , from Vetements.

The real Nicolas Ghesquire came out for Louis Vuitton SS 16.
He put his finger on it.Lots of leather , strong , a touch of bondage.
it was digital, straight forward, no fuss style.Im noticed and individual ; ‘ take it or leave it’.’
At Valentino, dark transparent dresses and modernist print maxi-dresses popped up.
Chanel Airlines gave us more passengers than stewardesses outfits.” Travelling in style “.
The ” deux pieces ” typical  tailleur how only Maestro Lagerfeld can make them , yet inspired by  the archives with the right attractive modern  up to date twist were covered in delightful colours like white and greys,  black, pastels and jeans blue.So get on that plane.
Sarah Burton ‘s Romaticism for Alexander Mc Queen   in her  creamy  coloured  long dresses  with ruffles and stand-up collars , came from another era; the Huguenots .  They were craftsmen from the silk industry who fled from France to LON /Spitalfields. Her respect for their artisanal know-how  inspired her to make girly, delicate, yet strong French lace and silk taffeta  clothes . She made it very new and brought it into this world.
Sacai was all about prints  : flowers, illustrations. Technically, we had layers and cutouts harmoniously tailered  together. Nice accessories were the scarfs and a new finish was the brocade. Always original stays the message here.
Vetements brought us oversized Items , too long sleeves, hoodies and assymitric shirts.
There was a strong, direct minimalistic sense . Not subtle and overpowering.
We can’t   wait to see what that will mean for Balenciaga ?!
St Laurent goes  gang-clubbing with us in tiny glitter dresses hanging loose over the body and wearing not flowers but a tiara in our hair. Festival gurus are ready for a muddy approach with their dark wellies and classical jeans jacket. Bring on those bands and DJs.
Raf Simons for Dior will make us  wear short jumpers or cropped jackets bolero-style over light transparent fluid dresses , short in the front, long in the back . A cover -up with stripy oversized park as makes me think of the relaxed sport-chic look.
And being Belgian, I’d like to finish with Dries Van Noten.
An exotic and elegant Asian & African melt-pot of textiles and  prints = never a mismatch !
He’s always exquisite and original. He puts his stamp on it.
Like  the tattooed bodycon T-shirt with a bright pink bra on top . Never seen this before and we will never see it again. Every single time we see the new collections , he’s unique and inspiring.

With those words, we’ve come to a end of more than 140 shows spread over 4 cities .
What’s the conclusion ?
Realising the consumer has become very global, flexible and always reachable .
Repeated notes were  technical, futuristic, eclectic, digital, positive, voluminous.
All sizes, forms and lengths were on the radar.
Characteristics are the maxi dress and coat , glitter and bright materials; disco style.
Trousers underneath   dresses combi , cropped, ruffled and puffed, fringes. Bohemian, dreamy hippie-chic.  Strong, outspoken back to the 80s shoulders.  Lots of transparent lace  and wavy  , frivole trousers.
It’s a lot to deal with , but in a way it all feels very natural and optimistic to  prepare for these collections next SS 2016.

To be continued.
TeDe.